You can eyeball the length by placing the backlight on top of the LCD and placing the wires over top of the solder pads. Optionally, you can solder directly to the 5v source from the power regulator, and the ground tab at the battery terminals. However, this involves soldering wires from one PCB to the other, and can be a little messy. Place your backlight into the LCD frame. It should fit comfortably. The innovative design of the Density backlight allows for the solder tab to sit flawlessly above the plastic LCD frame, allowing for an installation with absolutely no cutting!
Remove the protective plastic on both sides of your polarized film, and place it on top of the backlight. View "Figure 2" for further indication. Remember, if the replacement polarized film is not inserted, you will not be able to see the image on the LCD!
Now we need to test if everything looks okay. Reinsert the front LCD circuit board into the socket on the motherboard. Insert batteries or an AC adapter into the Game Boy and test it out. If everything looks good, you can begin reassembling your Game Boy following the disassembling instructions in reverse.
Source: How to Disassemble a Game Boy. If you are experiencing vertical columns of dead pixels, you can view this video on how to repair them:. Naturally, adding any electrical components to a device will increase it's power consumption, but the difference is negligible. They require frontlighting technology.
I've heard of backlights overheating regulator boards, does the Density backlight cause this problem? We have never had reports of issues like this because we have properly calculated resistor values.
Some of the Density backlight clones on the market have tried to cheaply increase the LED brightness by lowering the resistor value, thus increasing power consumption which will cause symptoms like this. Yes, this is fine. The resistor is integrated directly into the backlight to make your installation even simpler! We recommend trying to add a resistor of around 47 ohms if you experience this issue.
There is a small groove above the display that should give a little bit of leverage. Remove the two white foam rectangles from behind the screen and discard them. Place the new backlight behind the LCD screen. Now is the best time to remove the protective stickers from the polarizing film. Holding the sides of the polarizing film, carefully place it between the backlight and LCD. Be mindful of the orientation you need from step 7.
You may choose to use a piece of kapton tape to prevent the backlight from falling out during installation, as seen in the example. Older backlight kits require a resistor to properly regulate voltage in the Game Boy. Your kit may not have a resistor, in which case you can skip ahead to the next step. Holding the LCD in place, flip the motherboard over.
The resistor will need to be trimmed and soldered to the positive leg of the capacitor circled above. Feed the wires through the hole shown above. These wires can easily work themselves under the buttons if not properly managed. For a professional finish, apply flux before soldering and seal your new connections with liquid electrical tape. Reconnect the motherboards by carefully plugging the ribbon cable into place. Insert 4 AA batteries and power it up!
If everything worked, you should see magnificent glow of an LED screen gleaming behind your pixels. If it is, turn off the Game Boy and remove the batteries.
You will need to revisit your soldering connections to ensure the backlight is properly installed. Vertical lines may appear and are often repairable with a soldering iron. If you used a piece of kapton tape to hold the screen in place, now is the time to remove it. Place the buttons, silicone button pads, speaker, and motherboard into the front shell.
Each component will be guided into place with a small notch. You may need to feed the backlight wires through the hole further to make room for the buttons. Make sure the wires are not blocking any crucial screw holes.
Using a Phillips number 1 screwdriver, screw the front motherboard into place. There will be 10 screws used for this step. Carefully place both halves together. Using an appropriate screwdriver, screw the shell together. There will be 6 screws used for this step. Again, keep these in a safe spot they are easy to lost. NOTE: These screws are easily stripped, so be careful when removing. Now is a good time to clean the front shell with soap and water.
Let dry and turn on your soldering iron! Turn the screen front side facing down and obtain a clean, sharp utility blade. Starting with the top right corner when lying down ; insert the edge of the blade between the silver polarized adhesive film and the glass LCD.
Push your blade gently and evenly with pressure about 0. There is a layer of adhesive under the polarizer that you are aiming to remove as well so be sure to put pressure under, and as close to the glass as possible. Now use your fingers or pliers to peel back the silver film. Make sure to hold the screen with your other hand and protect the connections from the ribbons cables to the LCD. Severing these could lead to a screen that is not repairable.
Once all of the film has been removed, you may notice a small amount of adhesive in the corners. Use rubbing alcohol and a cue-tip to remove and clean the glass on the back side of the LCD. My experiences have revealed that about 1 in 10 game boys have this kind of adhesive. To remove, use a good-remover with a razor blade and gently scrape the glue off. You won't scratch your LCD unless you apply uneven pressure. Its a slow process but it works. Be sure not to get chemicals on the ribbon cable to avoid damage.
Clean behind your LCD screen with a can of compressed air. Any speck of dust will give you an annoying dot that is not easily removed. Prepare your LED backlight by removing the protective film on the front. Next, remove the films from the polarized film provided in your kit front and back. You'll want to orient your polarization film properly before you install and close up your case or you'll be opening her up again to turn it 90 degrees.
Hold up the film to an LCD such as a monitor and observe how the transparency of the film changes when you rotate it. Orient the film so that it becomes dark when in front of an LCD and then you are ready to place it on top of the backlight to prepare for insertion. This orientation will allow for a normal pixel orientation when installing the backlight alone. Turn the film 90 degrees and your display will invert, what once was dark would become light and vice versa.
Next, solder the 2 provided wires onto their respective pads on the flat cable of the backlight. A resistor is recommended in order to meet the exact voltage recommendations for the LEDs inside. It is especially necessary for the colors red and orange and gameplay can be effected if the resistor is not installed. Now you are ready to insert the backlight and film into the game boy. Touching only the edges of the backlight and polarization film, lift them together and slide them behind the glass LCD to fit into the existing frame.
Solder the 2 wires to their respective solder points before screwing the LCD cable back down. Reinsert your buttons and silicone pads on the front shell. With the front shell facing downwards, and the buttons and pads in place, insert the front PCB into the front shell just as it was before you removed it. Combine the two sides together and secure with the original 6 tri-wing screws. For help and discussion, visit the Hand Held Legend help forum here.
Reply 7 years ago on Introduction. The lines move with sprites so it's not dead pixels. Is there any way to repair that?
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